Oooooh Prety - Nail art Design Glitzy!

Oooooh Prety - Nail art Design Glitzy!
There was even one to match the nail vanish I had on which is a peachy/coral colour so I thought I would come up with a design that was extra glittery!

The idea with this design is that the glitter is fuller at the tip and less as you go down the nail, giving it a gradient effect.  To get this look I applied Orange Soda from 17 as my base colour and then using a gold glitter nail art paint I dabbed it on to the nail, whilst this was still wet I tapped some burnt orange glitter on top. To get the gradient effect I just applied more to the tip with the orange glitter and then as you look down the nail it fades out to the gold.
On my ring finger I added a couple of gold nail gems - as you can never have too much glitter!  You could add the nail gems to all your fingers, do what ever takes your fancy!

I did the same design using a few different colours so you could see what it would look like, they are on a nail art wheel (I didn't feel like having multi coloured nails!)

I tried to take the photos in different lights but unfortunately my camera hasn't picked it up very well so sorry they aren't the best quality, I think it may be the glitter?!
For these I used  Done Out In Deco (lilac) with purple glitter and Purple nail gems, Russian Navy (navy blue) with lilac glitter and light purple nail gems and Cuckoo For This Colour (green) with silver glitter and clear nail gems.  All the varnishes are from OPI.

This design will work with any colour so you really can put your creative spin on it.

What do you think?  Do you have any glittery nail designs to share?

Oooooh Prety - Nail art Design French Leopard

Oooooh Prety - Nail art Design French Leopard
Its such a great colour for summer and coral is one of my all time favourite colours!

I had intended to just paint my nails in the coral shade but I decided that wasn't much fun so I came up with this design instead!

I used the Diva Coral shade for my base, then using Konad plate M57 I stamped on a leopard design with a black nail art paint, then to create the black french tip I used Obscurity from OPI.

This is a super easy design to do, you can put your creative spin on it and change the colour.  If you give it a go I would love to see the results so send me some pics!

If you would like to see how I achieved this look take a peek at my tutorial video.

MORE NOTES ON GEL NAILS

MORE NOTES ON GEL NAILS

Always remember to keep the GEL OFF OF THE SKIN--BECAUSE YOU CANNOT REMOVE THE TACKY REDIDUE LAYER (UNCURED GEL) FROM THOSE SPOTS THAT WILL BE RESTING ON CLIENTS SKIN (can lead to allergies, irritation or skin sensitivities) on the backside of the extension. In emergencies,(not for stadard operating procedure)I keep alcohol in a nozzle squeeze bottle to try and flush those areas clear if possible---if they have been loaded up w/ skin protectant (such as Dermashield, or Gloves in a bottle before hand that will help, but not cure the problem).

I also ALWAYS recommend curing the hand UPSIDE DOWN in the lamps ANYTIME YOU HAVE DONE AN EXTENSION WITH A FORM WITH GEL , to be sure that there are no spots of uncured gel anywhere. Safety is one concern (there is no extra risk here vs any other product), where I am an extremist! When it comes to safety, (because of my chemical experience in the lab and in the pilot plant where I worked w/ products in 55 gallon barrel drums)there is no such thing as being too safe!

So, just remember,REPEATED OVEREXPOSURE to ANYTHING can lead to sensitivities and even actual allergies. Mainly I cure upside down to insure optimal strength and integrity of the nail extension, as well as to make sure free edge and sidewalls that really tunnel get complete exposure to lights for complete curing...plus, if you have ever come around the table and watched how your clients place their hands in the lights sometimes....you'd wonder why you bother to even turn them on! Return to menu

MORE GEL NAIL TRAINING ADVICE

MORE GEL NAIL TRAINING ADVICE
First, get your hands on every single video and training manual you can, from every company you can. What this will do for you is give you a preview of many different styles and techniques for you to experiment w/ and come up w/ your own style. Because I have yet to find one single manufacturer that gives perfect instructions.

Unfortunately a lot of them don't even know how to use their own products! Actually, with some companies, if you follow their instructions you will

A) waste a lot of product

B) waste a lot of time and

C) have nails that don't hold up well or even look good and

D) YOU'LL BE DOING IT WRONG!.

So it takes time and patience and experimentation. Keep rewatching the tapes to keep refining and changing your technique as you gain experience.

Many companies make tapes such as : LCN, IBD, Star, etc, look in Nails and Nail Pro Magz for others (also, once a year they even publish a list of all the videos on nails available by category, if I come across it in my magazine library I'll add the info here)

As far as a gel for a 1st time user of gels to use,.... I would start w/ the LCN since they are probably the closest to you (This was originally a personal email to a nail tech in Europe).....(Germany, Wilde Cosmetics) so probably the least expensive, or NOW YOU CAN ALSO GO WITH THE LE STARTER KIT with light and gels. And no matter where you live, they (LCN and LE) make the best light on the market right now anyway, so you might as well start w/ their starter kit which includes the light and samples of each of their gels, and their video. At shows it's usually on deal.

I personally am not particularly fond of their gels, but many techs are. So it's a good starting point, and at least you'll have a really good lamp!!! (eventually you'll want 2, one for each hand as you build speed). And YOU may personally like their gel best after you sample some others.

Preparation of the nail plate is the 1st impt step, and a good cure is essential...I could go on and on, but 1st you need to play w/ them awhile.

Last tip, go get gels put on yourself somewhere and everywhere (you'll find some good and a lot of bad, but you'll learn from both experiences).

Good luck, hope I've helped and not confused you! Return to menu

PURCHASING YOUR FIRST GEL NAIL SYSTEM

PURCHASING YOUR FIRST GEL NAIL SYSTEM
One way to start is with the LCN kit, which includes the light and samples of their gel, as well as a video (I think). This is THE LIGHT YOU HAVE TO HAVE (*see update info above though about the new LE light!), so even if you decide on a differant gel later, you will still use it with the LCN lamp (I know the manufacturers don't like it---but this lamp cannot be beat---not that I have found yet anyway! AND BESIDES THIS IS MY SITE AND MY OPINION!)

I use 3 of them at each station, 2 in front, one for each hand, and one on the left side of my L shaped station for repairs, overlapping clients, etc.

So now, if you buy any other light (or already have one) other than the LCN, I recommend curing the FIRST COAT OF GEL FOR TWICE AS LONG AS THEY (THAT PARTICULAR GEL LIGHT MANUFACTURER) TELL YOU TO! REALLY, THIS WILL MAKE A DRAMATIC IMPROVEMENT IN THAT PRODUCTS PERFORMANCE...TRY IT MY WAY FIRST PLEASE...THEN TRY THEIR WAY, if you are happy with their results then you have lost nothing but a little time, and I'd LOVE TO HEAR ABOUT ANY OTHER LAMPS ON THE MARKET ACTUALLY PERFORMING THE WAY THEY SHOULD (and not just for the full-set, I want to see continued good results 2-3-4 fills down the line!).

THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THESE OTHER LAMPS, THEY ARE JUST TOO SLOW FOR MY PATIENCE LEVEL, AND IN MY OPINION THEIR OWN INSTRUCTIONS ARE WRITTEN INCORRECTLY, which is why I say to cure for double the time they tell you to(especially the all-important 1st coat!)

When somebody else comes out w/ a lamp as good as the LCN I can't wait to be the first to try it. Hopefully some AMERICAN company will get on the ball and gives us a lamp as good as the LCN (made in germany). Anybody out there in manufacturer land listening?

UPDATE: LE (Light Elegance Gels in Oregon, USA)IS WORKING ON THIS VERY IDEA AS WE SPEAK!!!!KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED! Please hurry Jim!

As for gels, if you want something less expensive than the LCN gels, try the STAR Calcium Kapping gel (I use something similar to this that I private labe). THEY (mine and the star) have a differant consisitency than the LCN gels, which I personally happen to prefer, but others prefer the LCN or even IBD lines of gel, it's all a matter of individual preferance. LE has a 1 component that would be similar in consistency to the star and their 3 step system woulkd be similar to the LCN.

I can't TELL you which to choose, you have to experiment and decide for yopurself, all I can offer is my opinion and what I use---but that may not be the answer for you! Once you have the LCN light, you only have to buy individual containers of gel from the other companies, and not invest in another whole kit! (This is MY opinion, each nail tech must decide for themselves if this is the right methodology for them! Always consult the manufacturer of your specific product line for specific info.) Return to menu

ODORLESS AND U-V ACRYLIC SYSTEMS

ODORLESS AND U-V ACRYLIC SYSTEMS
 I would suggest checking out professional NAIL companies that will ALWAYS have education and support available to you, such as STAR NAIL (U-V acrylics and gels) Light Concept Nails ( Gels only, as far as I know----I especially love their lamp!). Check out your local distributor that you use most, and see which brands they carry, and which manufacturers have the most classes coming up in your area. That's where I would start. Learning any new system takes time and patience, and you will want the most professional technical help you can get....many have toll-free hotlines manned by professional educators to help you in a jam, between classes! When you settle on a product line take several classes, and then retake them a few months later, just to be sure. And ALWAYS beware of any companies who claim their product is so EASY to learn, that is a promise that simply can't be backed up! (Re-training to any new product whether it's a new brand or type of product is a HUGE committment) Stick with professional only products, they won't steer you wrong. If you are interested in GELS in particular keep reading on!. As for U-V cured liquid powders I have tried the STAR nails one, and liked it, as do several other techs I know, who currently use it. Return to menu

BARRIER CREAMS

BARRIER CREAMS
One last thought regarding the subject matter above.... Try using barrier creams (proper methods of application are somewhere in my web site...basics, wash hands, dry hands, apply foam, working into cuticles and under nails, let dry for 5 minutes ....repeat if especially sensitive...this should solve allergic responses to ANY nail product....even if you never use gels, start using a barrier cream ASAP to prevent a future allergy/sensitvity to other nail products and risk losing your career due to extreme and possibly down the road FULL-BODY sensitization...meaning not just the hands anymore...the lungs...all your skin (from eveaporating solvents.....) see my note in my web pages on this subject...I think it is wherever I put the discusssion on aromatherapy ....(guess I need an index for my site!).

As for barrier creams I personally like Dermashield because it also contains the long-acting anti-bacterial Triclosan. (See links page for web site address and phone #'s)

PS Have you checked out the offer from Light Elegance (direct link from my links page) for a trial kit w/ 5 gels (10gms each) for only $10!!!! If it's not listed on the site...just mention that Barb@Nailsplash told you and they'll give you the deal! Return to menu

More about U-V lights, gels, and allergic reactions

More about U-V lights, gels, and allergic reactions
If you are getting an itchy rash then it is most likely coming from a reaction to the gel itself, the cleanser (many of which are scented, which is why I prefer 99% alcohol), or MOST LIKELY :(this part brought to my attention by Millie, an educator at IBD, thanks for the reminder Millie!) the slight bit of uncured gel that rises to the top of a cured gel nail and removed(that tacky/sticky top layer that you remove w/ cleanser or alcohol). Since this is UNPOLYMERIZED GEL, is has the highest possibility of causing reaction.

You must be very careful when removing this "dispersion layer" to put down your wipe at the cuticle and pull off the nail bed with NO SCRUBBING OR BACK AND FORTH MOTION....only PULL the wipe straight off the nail from cuticle to free edge. Always use a new section of wipe when moving on to the next nail so as to not wipe the redidue from the last nail onto the next. each brand of gel nail s has differing amounts of this residue, some have a lot (mor potential for reactions) some have very little (they can alsmost be DRY WIPED....Trosani from Switzerland (impoted to USA and dist. by Maggie Boyd Exclusively.... and to some extent some of the LCN gels.

You may be allergic to only that brand of gels or gel a as a class (possibly the photo-initaitors, these take the place of solvents to start polymerization of the gel from liquid to solid under the lights). As far as long term studies (on gels and U-V lights)...the only studies done of course come from the tanning industry...and the medical community that has developed U_V RAY LIGHT BOXES TO HELP PEOPLE WITH S.A.D (seasonal affective disorder)...

There have not been any substantial studies in our industry (except for MMA, which is why it's banned) But I doubt that reserchers would bother w/ studues on U-V light which is less powerfull and less broad in spectrum than the U-V light we get from just walking outside...and again, the alternative: evaporation based curing is seen as a higher risk and priority for study...yet they have not done those studies yet either....by the way, U-V cured gels/resins are used by dentists in our mouths every day...ever has a cavity filled or tooth bonded and the dentists asst. then stood their holdong a light on it in your mouth for a minute or two?.....

As for 2 handed lights...these are for drying polish, they do not have the power to cure gels properly...... in my humble opinion.....and how would you cure the thumbs if they are FACING EACH OTHER, instead of facing a u-v bulb....also, how does one work with the lamp in the middle of the workspace on the table? Just thoughts to ponder...

It's not necessarily this class of lights that I dislike (ie that I do not prefer), but the BULBS INSIDE THEM...contrary to popular manufacturer beliefs (or marketing strategy perhaps?)...u-v rays do not bounce/reflect off of "tin" foil type material (refective material) with anywhere near their initial strength (Have you ever seen a tanning bed with these tin foil "reflectors"? NO!!!!!!....point made!)

My bulb of choice for the best possible cure is the OSRAM DULUX, 9 watt, U shaped bulb! When oh when will someone besides LCN catch on and make a lamp with these bulbs!!!!!!! (THAT IS NOT A TYPO IT IS DULUX W/ A "u"). ***Update Quality Beauty Supply (see link spage) now carries a lamp with 2 (not 4) of the osram bulbs in it for about $100.

****EVEN BETTER UPDATE!!! LE (LIGHTELEGANCE) HAS THEIR NEW U-V LIGHT NOW!!! SEE MY LINKS PAGE FOR THEIR SITE TO ORDER. Return to menu

MORE ABOUT U-V LIGHT CURING TECHNOLOGY

MORE ABOUT U-V LIGHT CURING TECHNOLOGY

This next explanation about U-V light technology can also be seen in my message boards...it is still in it's "rough draft" and un-edited, as I thougt it was pertinent info. that should be delivered to this page sooner in un-edited form, rather than later, when I get a chance to "tweak" it....hope you find it informative!

Question:U-V light technology question Barb- could you please explain why you like that uv light better than others. Have you tried the 2 handed ones? Have any studies been done to determine long term effects of the uv rays on hands? I always seem to get an itchy rash on my hands with gels or uv acrylics even if the product did not touch any skin. I think it comes from the uv rays. Thanks

ANSWERThe itchy rash would NOT be coming from the U-V lights unless you happen to be one of those rare people allergic to sunlight. Which means that you would never go outdoors w/out full protective geat, and would have to have every window shaded.....

The lighting used in U-V lamps are the same U-V (ultra-violet)rays in natural sunlight. In fact, the most harmful rays in natural sunlight have been filtered out to concentrate on the particular bandwitdh rays that most readily cure gels, w/out interference and competition from other rays in natural sunlight. 

 

To check this theory just leave some gel anywhere where it will be exposed to sunlight (put some gel on a a piece of paper or a nail tip, or leave out a container of it, and watch as you find that you will eventually find harderned gel (time varies by how much gel and how much sunlight it got, of course it takes LONGER than in the light because their is interferance from other natural rays).

Using just U-V A Ray to cure the gel, (again, found in natural sunlight!) speeds up the curing process by concentrating just on the ray wavelength that cures the gel faster and d w/ optimal performance. U-V A rays are also the least harmful to skin of the known sunlight rays----also, you get less exposure to the U-V A rays in these lights on your hands than you did just driving to and from your nail appt. While NOTHING in life is ever written in stone these lights are considered extremely safe with no known or reported health problems or risks. Return to menu

More On "How U-V Gels Cure" (Cont'd from previous page)

More On "How U-V Gels Cure" (Cont'd from previous page)

Traditional acrylics HARDEN in about 10 minutes, but they do not and cannot CURE for 24 hours or more. Ultra Violet Gel Nails harden in about 15-30 seconds and cure in about 2 minutes! (In theory, see disclaimer below....this is how they are supposed to work, but not ALL do, so buyer beware....and educate yourself.....remember, that in this world, you get what you pay for.....)

Think of liquid/powder acrylics as your new cement driveway...it is HARDENED in a few hours and you can walk on it, but it is not CURED for 3 days, that's why you don't drive on it until it is cured...if you did you would put minute cracks in the foundation and throughout the structure that would not show up right away, but would show up at some point down the road, thereby reducing the "life expectancy" of your new cement driveway!

Have you ever painted a wall in a room and "thought" it was "dry" about a day or so later, so you taped up a poster, and when you went to move it the tape took the paint up with it! That's because while the paint was HARDENED it was not CURED. Now try this on a wall that you know is cured (because you can't even remember when it was painted....)Unless the paint never adhered properly to begin with when it was first applied, ie, greasy fingerprints, contaminants, DIRT, etc...that's why just painting your walls to cover dirt isn't such a good idea long term!!!! Walls should be washed first....hmmmmm, sound similar to nail application....because it is, the ENAMEL (paints, polishes, another hmmmmmm....) industry is related to the PLASTICS(nails!) industry. Or if the paint is extremely old and brittle (another similarity!) Any way, barring the above 2 scenarios you will see that the tape does NOT take the paint off of the CURED wall paint!

There is a big differance between hardening a product and curing a product-----U-V lights allow us to CURE products faster! Whether it be... acrylics, plastics, gels, laminates, resins, urethanes, pollyschmolly's.... whatever fancy schmancy name some manufacturer wants to put on it, or whatever you want to call them!( a rose is a rose is a rose.....). HARDENED PRODUCTS are unstable untill they CURE, you must treat them gingerly until they cure!

ULTRA-VIOLET CURED GELS contain no evaporative solvents and cure completely before the client leaves the salon (well most of them anyway). Therefore, there are no foul smells, no solvent based health/lung concerns, and a nail that is COMPLETELY DONE/CURED before the client even washes up for polish! These are the reasons that I prefer U-V Cured Gel Nails....

But...here's the disclaimer..... keep in mind...NOT ALL GELS AND GEL LAMPS ARE CREATED EQUALLY!...Some of them on the market (gels and/or lamps) DO NOT CURE COMPLETELY, some of these manufacturers do warn you to tell your clients that their nails will keep curing for another 24 hours, and that they (the client) should treat them with care!) So, while the solvent inhalation problem is improved with some brands of gel, the curing properties are really only about the same as traditional acrylics...it is for these resaons that I like some LIGHTS AND GELS BETTER THAN 

 

OTHERS!

Think of this example...it applies equally to the products we buy for salon or for our own personal use and home....and applies to justifying to our clients why they pay the price they do to come to us versus the discount shop down the block.......Would you ever really, trully, expect a GEl (or traditional acrylic for that matter. or the price of a nail service!) that cost 1/2, 1/4, someVerdana, Arial, Helvetica even 1/10th(!)the price of others to perform as well as the more expensive brand....not that price is always an indicator of quality....but when was the last time that you saw 2 houses on the same block (that appeared approx. equal from the outside) and one was $300,000 and the other was $150K, or $75K, or even $30,000....do you REALLY think that happens in the real world???? Do you really think the $30K house was JUST AS GOOD as the $300K house......those 2 houses aren't on the same block, they are not even in the same neighborhood, town or region.....they are NOT EQUAL of course!

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More General Gel Nail Information..

FAQ's, Hints, Tips, Tricks, Q&A about GEL NAILS; a lot of the information in this section is ADVANCED (but not all), so do not attempt advanced techniques (such as fiber w/ gel) if you are a newbie to gels, go to the lessons above FIRST, play with the gels a bit, and then come back to advanced techniques and troubleshooting ideas. The info will make a lot more sense once you have first-hand working knowledge of gels!

Desperate for more info. on gel nails now? Check back issues of Nails and Nail Pro Magazines (links to their web sites are on my links page), or watch a few generic gel nail videos available from me here in my store at www.GelNails.com (or the store link from the main menu here at www.NailSplash.com ) and/or the offerings from several different manufacturers to get some generic ideas. And of course, follow your gel nail manufacturers instructions (and their video if available) for specifics on using whatever brand of gel you choose to work with.

What Brand Of Gel (and Other Nail Products) Does Barb@nailsplash Use???

Currently I only use U-V cured gel acrylics. As a "generic" nail technology educator I try (as best I can) not to recommend any specific brands of nail products as I feel that almost ALL of our professional nail products are truly GREAT and high quality.

I do believe the oft quoted adage that our biz (and many others) follows the 80/20 rule: 80% of our business is about us as nail techs as people, and only 20% is about our technical skill or products. (Also quoted is 20% of the workers do 80% of the work! How true!)

The reason I don't like to mention what brand gel I use specifically, is that as a generic educator I don't want to influence nail techs too much in one direction or another, because so much is really personal preference. I am always willing to share my opinions as to whether I consider some brands "good" or not, as in if I find one specific product or brand especially superior or inferior. I do give ‘hints’ however as to what brands I personally use in MY SALON in my online store at www.GelNails.com I only sell products that I PERSONALLY USE and recommend and fully endorse. I won’t sell it if I don’t personally use it; so that’s a BIG hint as far as what products I personally use and recommend to other techs based on my 12 years experience with gels :)

With "hard" supplies, like drills (Kupa) or exhaust systems (WTAC), or U-V Lights (LE, Avante), I will come right out here and make actual brand name suggestions based on what I use and am happy with. The reason for this is that these are expensive ONE TIME purchases, and most techs cannot afford to make a mistake and "experiment" with different brands. So while there may well be other good brands of these items as well, I have not had the opportunity to use them in a salon setting for years and years to be able to form an opinion, as I have been able to with the brands I currently use.

When it comes to gels and acrylic liquids and powders, so much is personal preference, and there really are very few "inferior" products left on the market. These products depend on the tech to repurchase constantly. If techs don't like it they won't re-buy it. Without continuous purchasing by techs, a brand just will not make it and will die out. That’s why I like brands that have been around awhile and have withstood the test of time.

Also, consider this: playing with different gel or acrylic brands is part of the learning experience. Trial kits are inexpensive enough to allow techs to make their own informed decisions through their own hands-on experimentation. Many times it is whatever brand a tech tries when she/he finally really "gets" it, that the tech assumes is superior and so she sticks with that brand. When really it wasn't the products superior ability at all! It was the techs newly found superior ability.

We as nail techs generally give too much credit and discredit to the products we use rather than ourselves. For example, when a tech is having a lot of lifting problems she/he blames it on her product, and so goes on a 6-month search for a new one. One day her/his lifting problems have vanished, and so she/he credits the new product she just started using with her success(come on folks, give me a break, I can only be politically correct for so long, I’m sticking with the ‘she’ version from now on since almost all techs are “she’s”; so no offense meant to the “he’s”, it’s just a matter of economizing on time typing and time reading and space…. Something most of us “she’s” have gotten used to eons ago when seeing almost everything else in the world of mankind referred to in male terms--- we really need one generic non-sex based term/noun for ‘people’ in our language, don’t you agree--- OK, I’m off track again here as usual, back to the conversation at hand :). In reality what most likely happened, is that this "search" for the perfect product made her really concentrate on her techniques, using proper product ratios, doing really good prep, etc. So in reality what has happened is she has gotten better as a nail tech skill-wise, and now, just as before she "blamed" her previous product for her lifting woes, now she "credits" the new product for solving her problems. When really, most likely, it was and IS her skill level has finally evolved and it has nothing to do with the product at all!

Techs need to give credit to themselves rather than the product, and conversely look to themselves first (rather than the product) when they are having problems. So trying new products is just part of the learning curve for most technicians. There is no ONE ultimate perfect product.

I choose what I use because I am comfortable with it (at least currently). I can work quickly and efficiently and I don't at the moment see anything "better" that would give me that much more "benefit" for the (usually higher) price, and the extra time it would take to "re-learn" with a new product (as in extra time per fill appt for "X" amount of time until it comes naturally---which can be a learning curve of 1-3 months for a full-time tech, and 6-12 months for a part-timer)

This doesn’t mean the ‘new’ product will not give stellar results ultimately (e.g. the Avante Systems Gel I recently switched to for more than half my clients---after 2 years of playing with it before now--I’m a bit stubborn; wish I had switched more sooner, but it was the TIME thing--, and the other half remain on LE or Star gels); contrary, the GREAT results for the client can usually be seen immediately (they just RAVE about the Avante Systems Gel and can SEE the benefits to their nails and nail health almost immediately). For me personal as a working nail tech on a tight schedule: It’s the extra TIME involved per fill temporarily to RETRAIN for a new product. The VERY experienced tech on a very tight schedule (someone running 40-45 minutes back to back to back for 10 hour days) may see the extra temporary 5-10 extra minutes per fill become a nightmare in her schedule until she adjusts to the new product and it’s intrinsic ‘personality’ so to speak. Then, the new product will eventually actually SAVE her time on fills and repairs in the long-run.

Believe me, I know. I try every single new product that comes my way on my own hands (LITERALLY)! Anyone who has seen my hands can testify to the fact that they look HORRIBLE, due partially to the fact that at least a zillion products have been on them (OK, maybe I exaggerate here). It’s the ‘new’ products that are ‘hot’ for the moment and then disappear quickly---because they don’t live up-- that take the worst toll on my pitiful fingers). I either try them at shows or try them personally myself at my salon. I get 10 new nails put on by 10 separate booths (companies) at every show I go to. That’s at least 12 shows a year---usually more like 20---… so believe me, I know! My nails know :)

So when you see me in person, that’s why my nails look pitiful. MY quest for knowledge and education and being on the cutting edge is greater than my ‘need’ for perfect looking nails of my own. MY love of nails and the Nail/Beauty industry goes deeper than my love of my OWN nails. I have a love for the technology and the science of it all, because that’s what goes into the making of the beauty of it all in the end result. I am a rarity; I love the industry more than I love the vanity of it all that originally got me started. Such a strange circle my life has taken…

So if you are new to gels in particular, then play with several different brands and consistencies to get a feel for what you like. Then play around more with those brands you initially like the most, until you narrow it down, based on price and performance and ease of use for you personally.

So in answer to the unspoken question; No, I don't have any plans in the near future to market my own brand of gels, I prefer to educate than "sell" for now. Also, because so much of what we do is US and not our product, advertising what brand we use to clients can sometimes give clients the impression that they could get the "same" service from any other tech who uses the "same" product line. Sometimes this works to a salons advantage if the product line has mass name recognition to clients. I use only gel nail products, and currently gels do not have a lot of name recognition (most nail clients, and techs for that matter, have not been exposed to gels) so promoting the "brand name" Vs promoting my service "philosophy" would not be of benefit to me. 

CHANGING CLIENTS OVER TO GEL NAILS (TRANSFERS)

When A client is wearing acrylics and I am going to change her over to Gel Nails, or when the client is wearing Gel Nails from another salon; I call this initial procedure a "transfer" (See full-set lesson above for procedure). I am going to transfer the client to my style and type of nails. This generally involves removing the old nails and applying the new. Occasionally the old product can just be filed thin and the new gel applied over it, as in a fill, but this is generally not good practice, for reasons I will outline below.

Generally I charge the same price (or more) for a transfer as for a new Full-Set even if (especially if) they are wearing nails from another salon, because those nails usually have to be removed and replaced. Otherwise, the acrylic left underneath may start to lift at some point in the future and take the gel on top of it with it. This makes it look as if the GEL has lifted, when that isn't the case!

In the beginning, in order to entice clients to change to gel, you can offer to do transfers for a Fill-In price. Just be sure to a lot a Full-Set amount of time though. Later on you can raise the price to match your Full-Set price, and eventually charge for a removal(of the old nails) AND a new full-set!

WHY I GUARANTEE MY WORK ON GEL NAILS

I am so sure that clients will be happy with gel nails that I am able to guarantee my work! Read on for more info. about how and why and other benefits!

First off though, if I am going to be able to GUARANTEE my work, it needs to ALL be my work, from top to bottom. That is why I prefer to do a removal and new full-set rather than a "transfer" via a fill.

In the very beginning a policy such as mine can be a real headache, especially for newer techs. There are complainers who see imaginary faults and have nothing better than to come into the shop daily for these repairs. At that point you have to take a hard-line policy of "structural only" repairs, not aesthetic repairs; those beauty (as in personal preference) and "imaginary" repairs, which do pay off in good will, can be taken care of at the next scheduled appointment.

That said, then consider the BENEFITS to you the tech in giving away FREE REPAIRS! Really! In the long term a free repair policy can pay off:

1) It gives us all a chance to see where we may have any technical problems while there is still a problem to be fixed (and the whole nails not gone, leaving us nothing to analyze). Even after years of experience there can be problems: either general that could affect all your clientele, or mostly case specific for each individual client. Individual client record cars are invaluable; I track all repairs, which finger, what the problem is, etc, and what I did to rectify. I have codes for all this that make it quick, and of course down the road there is nowhere near as much to write down anymore. After a while I can even tell them what color they wore "2 times before Easter last year" without looking at the card. . . Ok, I'm exaggerating a little here now, but you get my point.

2) It makes for a happier client who is satisfied and trusts me.

3) It leads to fewer and fewer repairs and service breakdowns down the road, which makes everyone happier!

I feel that there is MORE to be gained from doing free repairs than there is to loose if the policy is explained and handled properly!

QUESTION (posted to message boards): If gels are as great as you say they are (and they indeed sound great) why are acrylics so much more popular?

ANSWER: VERY GOOD QUESTION!!! Many , many reasons.... read on!
A)I'll start with initial start-up costs...a good light is EXPENSIVE, and each station should have 2 for the comfort of the client...(one for each hand)...and to maximize speed of the tech.

B) Retraining nail techs takes an investment of time (which means $$$)....doing gels means re-learning nail technology from the ground up! And gel is "easy to learn, but hard to master"....so many figure why bother changing?

C) Many Nail Techs do nails in BEAUTY SALONS that are primarily "HAIR", and the owner knows little if anything about nails....hence many salon owners see nails as a profit center only(ie they don't want to spend any money on the nail section), or only as a convenience add-on for their hair clients...that is why many of us refer to nails as "the step-child of the beauty industry"

D) GELS ARE HARD TO MASTER! Many of our manufacturers refuse to acknowledge that gels require almost complete retraining to master (versus the acrylics they already know), and advertise them as "as easy as applying polish"...so many techs buy a system, and when it doesn't work out w/in the first few weeks, they give up and stash it in the closet, and go back to what they already know.

E) There are many "gimmicky" gel nail companies out there who come and go in the blink of an eye....they appear at a show w/ a flashy booth and sales gimmick and go for the one time sale....w/ no education or continuing support offered....so gel nails have gotten a bad name in America because of these sales tactics such as pyramid scams, etc.... They take advantage of the fact that we are all looking for the EASY solution (just as many weight loss products do)...but always remember, if it's that easy, then why would the customer even need us to begin with!

F) Techs or salons buy "cheap" gel nail lights and gels...and then are frustrated by the lack of quality...and so give up on gels altogether....rather than buying QUALITY from the start...if you can't afford the best, then wait and save up, .....don't buy cheap stuff, because it won't work, and you have only wasted your money!

G) Because of the costs of the U-V LIGHTS schools are hesitant to install them for tech training (the same is true in schools for DRILL education!).... Unfortunately many things disappear in the classroom setting (sad but true).... I know of Gel Nail Manufacturer teachers who have tried to tap that market (the soon to be graduates) and come in to teach gel nails (or anything else for that matter) as an expert educator for a 1/2 day or so in a school (and worse yet in an advanced course for CEU's for experienced nail techs).... and they leave w/ only half of what they brought w/ them. This is a very sad commentary on the professionalism of our industry...actually the entire beauty industry....This area of PROFESSIONALISM is one that needs a major re-haul....unfortunately, we all know that the type of techs who do this sort of thing are NOT the ones seeking education and advice, or spending time reading professional forums such as this anyway.....

H) And the rest is a mystery as to WHY....Gel Nails account for 90% of artificial nail services in all of Europe! Usually Americans LOVE European trends......but the good news is that forecasts of industry trends say that America too will be 90% gel w/in 10 years! So the time to learn and profit from gels is NOW! I could not possibly charge what I do if my customers could come even close in Gel Nails wear-ability for less money anywhere! They cannot get my service anywhere else...even if a nail salon opened up next door that offered gel nails at 1/2 the price, they would not be a threat to me, BECAUSE they cannot offer 8 years of gel nail experience....and my clients know first hand (from scheduling appts w/ my employees who have less exp. than I do) that EXPERIENCE w/ GELS is crucial....SO DON'T WAIT....GET YOUR GEL NAILS EXPERIENCE NOW!!!!!!! Once you are (very) experienced w/ gels your service time will be less than it is for acrylics, your clients will be able to go longer between appts (you charge extra for that!), and repairs and breaks become almost non-existent compared to acrylics!

QUESTION: Gel split on the tips....I had a client come into the salon on Sat, her son was getting a haircut. She showed me her nails which I just put on 1 week ago, they are gels. Three on the tips were split lengthwise right down the middle, but the gel was not cracked. I asked her if she had been chewing them, she said no. What do you think, was it something I did or is she biting them?

ANSWER: Sounds like tips were too small, or gel was applied too thinly or not cured properly.When undersized tips are applied they have to be flattened out to fit the nail bed arch.....this pressure on the tip can cause it to pop off or crack vertically down the middle as you describe.....just as most women in the world wear their shoes 1/2 to 1 full size too small....most techs undersize tips that same range or more....if you had been doing acrylics previously, the strength and non-flexible nature of the acrylic was holding the tip in line......but that does not mean acrylic is better!!! Under-sizing tips w/ acrylic leads to problems of sidewalls pulling away and nail separating from the tip and the acrylic at the free edge and on the sidewalls

I'm curious as to why you suspect biting? Has she been a client before?....how long did you make this full-set? With any biter and w/gels in general I recommend that full-sets be no more than 25% (to 50% maximum)....gel nails are not meant to be "fake nails" they should be an enhancement and the goal is for the client to get her own nails grown out underneath, so that the gel becomes a protective overlay for her own nails underneath....for this reason Gels should not be applied w/ the same "mind-set" as acrylics.....I also keep in mind how long I would want this clients nails to be naturally.....gels are not a quick fix like acrylics, so cannot be applied as long initially....but the client can be allowed to grow out her natural nails slowly, after all of the artificial length has been grown out and clipped or filed away....

I recommend starting w/ a moderate length, and then shortening nails back to this length at each 2 week visit....after nails are grown out and doing well then the client has to choices. She can either switch to 3 week visits, or if she wants to start adding length she needs to stay at 2 weeks, and each time I let her "keep" 1/2 of what she grew out (the other 1/2 is shortened away), until she reaches the length she is going to maintain (record this as a % of nail bed vs free edge on her client card) when she can maintain this length for 2-3 visits consecutively w/ no breaks or repairs then she can change to 3 week visits.....this is how I do it and still be able to guarantee my work....if at any point she develops problems I tell her we either have to shorten them a bit or change back to 2 weeks (or change back to 3 weeks if she was a 4 weeker)....

So yes, there are several possibilities for your cracks, the most likely culprits are undersized tips and/or in conjunction w/ too long of length. Or it might be that she bit them, but then that still points to undersized tips (or the brand of tips?) or too long of a length for her to begin with....Barb!

DEALING WITH NAIL BREAKAGE
Broken nails: generally you can trace problems all the way back to the FULL-SET application! If the nail was not applied perfectly (and application tailored to that clients individual needs)then problems can, and usually will show up around the 2nd or 3rd fill (they generally APPEAR to still look OK at the 1st fill after the full-set, and shortly thereafter start to show problems, sometimes only a few days after the 1st fill---so if you do the fill after someone else does the full-set, then you will get the blame for doing a poor job, when the fault most likely belongs to the tech who did the initial full-set application!)

ANOTHER scenario for this situation happens when you take over a client from another tech and that tech has been doing "FLUFF" fill-ins for the last 1-2-3 appts.....meaning she didn't rebalance or do any PREVENTATIVE maintenance (hint: she's been finishing in 20 minutes! and running out the salon door before everybody else at the end of the night!)

So, before you dissect your fill procedure, go back and look at your FULL-SET procedure to be sure the nails have been applied perfectly (no cutting corners!), to give you a good foundation to build on with your fills. Then when problems appear you can decide if they relate back to the full-set

 

 source:http://www.nailsplash.com

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #7) Pink and Whites with Gel

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #7) Pink and Whites with Gel
See the full-set section above for info about building the full-set as pink and whites. The following info is in regards to maintaining P & W's after the initial full-set.

Honestly, it took me 2 years to perfect the Pink And White backfill to the point that it took me the same amount of time as a "regular" fill, and another full year until it finally took LESS time (because of the "no polishing")than a "regular" fill. To this day I am still refining and perfecting my Pink and White backfill technique. By the way, a noteworthy point of interest: Pink and Whites do NOT have to be PINK. Clear is just fine! The pink comes from their nail bed sufficiently in most cases. Plus, the outgrowth is much less noticeable with clear than with pink! Reserve the pink for nail biters or others with ‘ugly’ nail beds.

I've been doing nails about 12+ some years now, and started doing P & W's on a regular basis 6 years ago.... before that I would give-up on them because of all the extra time it took.... but like any other procedure or skill in our industry, I found that in time and PRACTICE it finally came to me. Now I purposefully schedule my book so that my last appt before I leave is a P&W so that I can look forward to no polish drying time and so leaving the salon 10-15 minutes sooner!

Personally, I used to really like the Atwood Industries backfill bit designed by Lisa Comfort (it cuts a really nice trench, IMO). But recently have gone back to just my normal barrel bit and removing most of the free edge white gel to the proper thickness to accommodate the new gel to be applied. Trying to match the color of the ‘old’ white to the new white is very difficult, so you end up recovering the whole free edge anyway to get even coverage with no shadows or color disparity. I am inclined to change my mind on these issues regularly though (I’m still learning and changing), that’s why I offer both opinions; my current one and my previous one. As for what my future opinion will be? Stay tuned to my message boards and newsletters for that info as it develops over time. There is no ONE right answer to many technical nail questions. Sure, there are plenty of wrong answers, but there are also many acceptable and ‘right’ right answers. Use your own best judgment and choose what works best for you, and be open to change :)

Back to the topic at hand: YES, you do need to file off about 1/2 (sometimes more!) of the old white from the FE to re-cover with the new white (at the new smile-line and out over the FE), in order to get nice, even white colorant on your FE (free-edge), and to prevent to FE from getting too thick after multiple fills.

What product line you use may or MAY NOT contribute to your speed and skill level, while I do have some personal recommendations in that area that I feel are relevant (everything I personally use based on my years of experience is what I sell in my store at www.GelNails.com ) -- it’s not really important for this discussion, but I do have some general generic tips that you may or may not already know, so here goes..... (see also the regular fill steps above for more info)

Here are my over-simplified (or maybe not so over-simplified? Maybe the better description is "short version".... as there is so much more I could address in this section!) This is an area that is covered in depth in the educational gel nail video tapes I produce and sell in my online store at www.GelNails.com (specifically: Live Lecture, Gel Basics, In The Salon, and Tampa Live are the ‘basic’ building blocks of any gel nail education; beginning or advanced).

Pink & White back-fill steps

1) Regular prep... wash, sanitize, remove polish, push back cuticles.....

2) Shorten nails (I use a one-cut tip slicer, others use a drill or by hand), whatever your usual and customary method.

3) Rebalance the nail. By hand-file or by drill, move back the arches, take down thickness at the FE (free-edge), remove about 1/2 the white there, allowing for more white application, so it doesn't get too thick! (Sometimes this CAN mean removing almost all of the old white, so a drill is most helpful!) Bevel the new FE.

4) Blend the cuticle and side-wall areas.

5) Trench the new smile line with the back-fill or FM (French Manicure) bit of your choice. Trench from where the new smile line should be to where it used to be, maybe a bit more. OR file by hand or with a regular drill bit; reduce the thickness of the entire FE, more than in a regular fill to accommodate the additional white gel application.

6) Re-examine nails for any other re-adjustments necessary, but don't drive yourself nuts!

7) Do all your usual pre-product application stuff.... dusting, pre-primers or de-hydrants or pH balancers, primers, etc! (See acrylic nails and gel nails full-set lessons for more info on primers)

8) Apply your white Free Edge (FE).* Use the "tail technique" (see lessons above) to "draw" your new smile line, either right onto the nail at the new smile line, or INTO the trench you drilled. Now gently pull the gel out from the smile line over the FE. (See French Manicure polish steps in Hints & Tips page for more a bout "drawing" the perfect smile line. For crisper smile lines with gel, set nails up one at a time (5 to 10 seconds to set), alternating hands, then cure the entire hand. *For more on gel smile lines see my message boards at www.NailSplash.net and www.GelNails.net . (The white gel I like best for this procedure is from Light Elegance, see my links page for info.)

9) Now, continue with your normal fill..... Apply I thin coat of gel to the nail bed, from cuticle up to smile line, but not on the white FE yet, and cure. Apply second coat as per your usual steps... float a coat over the entire nail (including the white FE now) and add arches as necessary for re-balance etc, and cure.

10) Cleanse tacky dispersion layer with cleanser or alcohol as usual. If nails are PERFECT (hopefully! But this takes time and practice!) then send client to wash and you are done! If not perfect, then continue with your usual
finishing work, (see previous lessons for these steps if needed) which should be VERY minimal if you sculpted well to begin with. Blend cuticle area gently, check side-walls and FE. Now contour top ONLY as needed, if at all! (Strive for no contouring to reduce lifting later, sculpt with your brush, not your file.) Buff as per your usual procedures, then 3 or 4 way buff to a high-gloss shine or apply a finisher or gloss gel , cure, then cleanse, or simply apply a clear or translucent French manicure topcoat color.

11) Send the client to wash (yes, even if you're not polishing, removal of chemical residues is critical to help prevent long-term client sensitization!).... take your payment, book her next appointment, and NOW you're all done.

Remember the "100 Full-Set Rule*" and practice, Practice, PRACTICE! (See ‘Hints & Tips’ page from main menu here at www.NailSplash.com)

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #6) Gel Nail Removal Techniques

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #6) Gel Nail Removal Techniques

GEL REMOVAL

Yes, you do have to file GELS off (BUT I PREFER TO MECHANICALLY, RATHER THAN HAND FILE THEM, WITH A DRILL!), but you don't have to file it ALL off. 1st
prepare just as you would for a fill. Shorten and shape the nails, thin out the entire nail, and file flush the cuticles and sidewalls gently. At this point you
would normally go to gel application, instead you continue filing the gel until it's ALMOST gone. The key is to shorten the nails, there is no way for them to maintain the length the have become accustomed to w/ out the support of the gel enhancement. Next manicure the nails as natural nails utilizing some type of reconditioning treatment (such as paraffin wax). I recommend that clients come in one additional time for a follow up manicure w/in 1-2 weeks to assess the nails and see if any gel still remaining on the nail bed is still intact----it almost always is, because it is so thin and clear and almost imperceptible. It is
the rare occasions I've had to remove a set of gels (due to moving, finances, etc)(and I charge the same price as a fill for the procedure, and it takes about the same amount of time for removal, paraffin, manicure and polish...so
it's no bother if a client waits until her appt. to tell me she has to quit coming---more than once w/ tears in her eyes).

What surprises clients most is what GOOD shape their nails are in after the gel is removed. These clients ultimately return because of their good experience w/ gels. Gels are the wave of the future, for our clients, and for us! Don't be scared by the fact that they have to be filed off. I personally guarantee you that filing off a set of gels
properly is far less work and far less injurious to the nails, cuticles, and skin than sitting in acetone for anywhere from 15-30 and sometimes even 60 minutes!

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #5) Gel terminology and techniques.

STEP-BY-STEP GEL NAIL LESSONS - Lesson #5) Gel terminology and techniques.
Repairs of Cracks, Breaks, etc., and other misc. troubleshooting techniques.

Basically, you will generally follow the instructions in the "transfer" full-set instructions for repairing nails most of the time. File loose, broken material off, and file rest of nail flush, apply form, and apply gel in 3 coats to rebuild as a new nail. The other option is to file the gel off and reapply a new tip.

For cracks in nails; File the product thin, apply 1 coat of gel, then the fiber-wrap to reinforce the cracked area and follow with 1 or 2 more coats of gel as needed. See the ‘adding fiber-wraps to gel’ lesson, along with the Full-set lessons for more specific info.

GEL "TAIL" TECHNIQUEWhen building ARCHES with thin gels: Use a "tail" or "ribbon" technique with the gel
(With thin viscosity gels): A "tail" is when you dip the tip of your gel brush into the gel and let it drip off the brush slightly, so that you have a "tail" of gel streaming down. You keep the brush completely off the nail (up to an inch above the nail) and let the end of the tail make contact with the nail. Now you move the brush (still not touching the nail with the brush) in the direction of your arch (from cuticle toward free edge, or proximal to distal points) vertically down the center of the nail.

The tail will keep streaming off the brush and onto the nail. It will lay down a line of gel that will "self level". If you have used too much gel it will run into the cuticles and sidewalls. Too little and you won't have enough strength. You must also develop an instinct for how fast or slow your gel will level it self to help you determine how quickly you need to get it into the lights before it has completely flattened out!

It may be necessary in the beginning to "set" a nail before proceeding to the next until you perfect this technique. Put the nail in the light for approximately 15 or 20 second. This will harden the gel enough (but not cure it yet), so that it will stop moving and allow you to continue working on other nails. NEVER apply more gel to a nail that has only been set. Only apply additional coats of gel to other CURED layers of gel. After arching and setting each nail, do not forget to go back and then CURE the entire hand.

AS time goes on you will be able to build arches in such a way that a "set" between each arch you build won't be necessary, you will be able to build each nail so that by time you have finished the 5th on a hand the other 4 are "magically" exactly where you want them to be from the gels leveling perspective. Again, this comes with much time, practice and patience!!!! The educational videos I sell in my store, or an in person class with me when I come to an area near you can be very helpful with understanding these instructions and concepts.

GEL AND TACKY OR ROUGH SURFACE
(in regards to arch building): Gel will only MOVE (Self level) when you are working on WET gel (a slip layer). Arching with thin gels requires that you be putting the arches (TAILS) into a wet layer of gel (do NOT "set" or cure this working layer of gel). If you attempt to put down arches on a cured layer of gel without laying down a "slip" layer, the gel will not move. It will be like putting gel down on the sticky side of tape. The dispersion layer of cured gels is very "tacky", that is why we remove it with cleanser or alcohol before filing it.

Building arches with thicker builder gels does not require a "slip" layer in most cases, but also, builder gels will NOT self level and can be sticky and not move or flow the precise way you intend them to (much the same way acrylic didn’t do exactly what you wanted it to do the first times you used it in school either :). For some techs a stiff gel is a good point (like those very accustomed to acrylic only---especially those who worked with fast setting acrylics that required them to put them exactly where they wanted them and not some of the slower acrylics that will actually self-level a bit on there own at first), for other techs, this is not so good... it's all a matter of preference and style and your learning curve.

Remember, in my instructions, our "slip" (sliding, movement)layer under the arches is also part of the structure of the nail (in gel layers #2 and 3 in a full-set for instance), so do not make it too thin; it is a normal coat of gel with extra added to give 3 dimensions to the nail (think almond shaped in 3D). IF you need to go back and add just arches though, then make the "slip" layer very thin!

GEL AND SHINY SURFACES:
Gel will only stick to "rough", "dull" or "tacky" surfaces. gel will not adhere to glossy surfaces. If you ever accidentally REMOVE the tacky surface during application, e.g. for some reason you wipe the nails with alcohol (or any solvent, even acetone) you will have to file them out (or buff) to remove ALL shine everywhere in order to apply the rest of your gel. You cannot apply gel over shiny or glossy gel, only over DULLED (buffed out) gel! So do not use the cleanser/alcohol until you are completely finished applying gel!!!

RIBBONING GEL:
Keeping the brush flat and parallel to the nail, you very gently put the brush down in the gel on the nail. Now pick it up and get a "tail" to pull over to another section. Set the brush down to complete the tail on the other side, and now repeat. Pick up more gel and move it vis the tail method, so now you are ribboning the gel back and forth to fill in an area; such as in "drawing the box" on a form for extensions (see FS over forms lessons above), to fill in the box, or correcting a low spot on a nail during application.

I'll add more hints and tips and trouble shooting ideas here in the future! In the meantime, direct your specific application problems to my message boards!